Materials: Dense black wool
broadcloth, red wool & white silk figured cloth with four self covered buttons, white
linen, ten long stays, six mother of pearl buttons, black tagua nut
buttons - 16 on jacket, 8 on skirt, black & gold woven silk
petersham, black silk satin twill lining, black polished cotton skirt
lining, two black elastic stirrups, metal hooks and hand-bound
Provenance: Habit was purchased by an
important American collector. She collected American and European
clothing during the decades of the 1940s through 1980s.
Labels: Petersham, "Tailors to
H.R.H. Infanta Eulalie Haas Bros. New York". Small printed
linen label behind petersham, "Haas Bros. 53 West 26th Street
N.Y." written in ink on this label, "Miss L. M. Morgan April
Condition: Excellent. On back of
skirt there is slight fading; one narrow 3/4" long hole (also in
the back) which is hardly noticeable as it is near a seam and the wide
inside seam allowance camouflages the hole.
13.5"; B, 36";
W, 22"; Slv L, 24". Skirt: W, 23"; Front L, 49";
Back L, 41.5"; Hem C, 89".
Comments: Miss. L. M. Morgan had to
come from a family of means as this two piece riding habit was expensive
and very chic when custom made for her in 1895. All hand finished seams,
the tailoring is exquisite throughout. The clever red faux-vest buttons
to the inside of the jacket. The fitted jacket, with its wide revers,
double breasted V-shape and skirted back, is reminiscent of an 18th
century gentleman's coat. The leg o' mutton sleeves soften the extreme
cut of the jacket. By the 1890's riding skirts were cut shorter and
closer to the body for safety sake. As in this sidesaddle skirt, the
piecing was intricate, allowing for a lady's raised knee to fit
comfortably into a curved seam in the skirt. Once mounted, the rider's
boots were anchored into two long elastic loops on the inside of the
Not until the early 20th century was anything but "aside"
riding considered proper for a lady.