#2642    Sidesaddle Habit   c. 1895 

United States  RESERVED  $2200.00

Dense black wool broadcloth, red wool & white silk figured cloth with four self covered buttons, white linen, ten long stays, six mother of pearl buttons, black tagua nut buttons - 16 on jacket, 8 on skirt, black & gold woven silk petersham, black silk satin twill lining, black polished cotton skirt lining, two black elastic stirrups, metal hooks and hand-bound eyes.  

Provenance: Habit was purchased by an important American collector. She collected American and European clothing during the decades of the 1940s through 1980s.

Labels: Petersham, "Tailors to H.R.H. Infanta Eulalie  Haas Bros. New York". Small printed linen label behind petersham, "Haas Bros. 53 West 26th Street N.Y." written in ink on this label, "Miss L. M. Morgan April 1895".

Condition: Excellent. On back of skirt there is slight fading; one narrow 3/4" long hole (also in the back) which is hardly noticeable as it is near a seam and the wide inside seam allowance camouflages the hole. 

Measurements:    Jacket: Sh-Sh, 13.5"; B, 36"; W, 22"; Slv L, 24".  Skirt: W, 23"; Front L, 49"; Back L, 41.5"; Hem C, 89".

Comments: Miss. L. M. Morgan had to come from a family of means as this two piece riding habit was expensive and very chic when custom made for her in 1895. All hand finished seams, the tailoring is exquisite throughout. The clever red faux-vest buttons to the inside of the jacket. The fitted jacket, with its wide revers, double breasted V-shape and skirted back, is reminiscent of an 18th century gentleman's coat. The leg o' mutton sleeves soften the extreme cut of the jacket. By the 1890's riding skirts were cut shorter and closer to the body for safety sake. As in this sidesaddle skirt, the piecing was intricate, allowing for a lady's raised knee to fit comfortably into a curved seam in the skirt. Once mounted, the rider's boots were anchored into two long elastic loops on the inside of the skirt. Not until the early 20th century was anything but "aside" riding considered proper for a lady.